Sushi Symphony: Tasting Japan in Paris [NFTW #52]

What’s good everyone? I hope we’re all doing well. I’ve just got back from Paris where I spent the last week attending the ETHCC conference. The week was eventful and productive—catching up with friends, partners and clients in the Ethereum ecosystem. There was also time for me to check out Paris in the summer—an opportunity I didn’t have the last time I came as I visited in the final stretch of Paris’ winter.

Tasting Japan in Paris

The process of becoming an Itamae {ita·mae}, a skilled sushi chef in Japanese cuisine, requires dedication, training, and a deep understanding of the art of sushi preparation. The journey to becoming an Itamae begins with a genuine passion for sushi and Japanese cuisine. Itamae must have a strong interest in the artistry and precision involved in sushi-making.

At one of the events I attended last week we had sushi at Yakuza by Olivier Charles. An exceptional experience I would recommend to all visiting Paris. At one point during the evening I went to spend some time watching the Itamaes at work. I’m a huge fan of learning the process behind things and I wanted to see the process for what was the best sushi I’ve ever had (no exaggeration in the slightest). I spent 15 minutes just observing their process of preparing sushi. It was a delight. At the end I thanked the Itamaes for allowing me to witness their process and asked if I could take a video—they kindly obliged.

This brief experience left me interested in learning more about their process and so I’ve prepared some thoughts on what it takes to becoming a skilled sushi chef. The journey to becoming an Itamae is conducted via an apprenticeship model (Shokunin Kishu). Traditionally, Itamae apprenticeships involve learning under the guidance of a master sushi chef (Itamae) in a restaurant setting. This apprenticeship can last several years and involves observing, assisting, and gradually taking on more responsibilities. Such responsibilities include:

• Knife Skills: Central to becoming an Itamae is mastering the art of knife skills. Sushi chefs use a variety of specialized knives to prepare fish and other ingredients with precision and finesse. (Captured in the video above)

• Rice Preparation: The ability to cook and season sushi rice correctly is fundamental. Achieving the right balance of vinegar, sugar, and salt is crucial to the flavour and texture of the sushi.

• Fish Selection and Handling: An Itamae must learn how to select the freshest and highest-quality fish. Proper handling and cutting techniques are essential to maintain the fish's flavor and appearance.

• Sushi Styles and Techniques: There are various types of sushi, such as nigiri, maki, sashimi, and more. An Itamae needs to master these different styles and techniques.

Becoming an Itamae is a labor of love, and the true reward lies in the satisfaction of creating masterful sushi dishes that delight diners and honour the rich tradition of Japanese cuisine. It is also a lifelong process. The art of sushi-making is continually evolving, and even accomplished Itamae must stay updated with new trends and techniques to maintain their excellence in the field. It’s a lifelong endeavour—like all great things are.

Paris in The Rain

Alysia Nicole Harris is a skilled poet and writer. Her voice has been one of the most consistent voices I’ve listened to for the past decade. She has gained recognition for her thought-provoking performances that touch on themes such as social justice, identity, love, and the human experience.

Her poetry is known for its lyrical quality, raw emotion, and ability to provoke reflection and conversation. In this poem she iterates some of my sentiment towards Paris in a beautiful manner. She wonderfully teases out the nuances of Paris by metaphorically allowing Paris to be the backdrop for her unrequited love. I’ll allow Alysia to see you out for this week’s notes.

Until next week. Peace.